Top Tips

Backing it In

I hope this doesn't come across as spam but there seems to be quite a lot of confusion here regarding backin' it in, how to do it and why so here's a bit of an explanation about what we teach at the Supermoto School:

To really understand the reasons and benefits of backing the bike in we've got to look at the history of SM which of course includes what we're looking to achieve from the corner.

As I'm sure you're all aware, and after the US roots, SM grew from the use of short and tight circuits - e.g. tops speeds usually less than 70mph and a lot of tight hairpin like corners - and the use Kart track type circuits.

This is essentially where the backing it in technique grew from - backing it in is used to get the bike pointing in the direction you want to exit the corner allowing you to get on the gas harder and earlier. So on some corners, especially wide open ones backing it is slower than keeping the whole thing in line, but on these specific SM type corners, it is the fastest way round.

So what about the technique?

Backing it in involves the balance of rider, brakes, clutch, gearbox etc. but in essence is actually quite a simple technique to learn when broken down into its component parts. So, in brief, here is an outline of the technique:

1. Set yourself up on the bike for the corner - get your body right up front almost sitting on the tank filler cap. Position yourself sitting ever so slightly to the inside (e.g. half a a bum cheek off the seat to the inside).

2. Begin braking - using the front brake as normal (i.e. this is where almost all braking force is) and lightly brake with the rear. You do NOT use the rear brake to initiate the slide - if you do you prolly won't be around for very long to tell the tale, especially if you lock the rear wheel - the rear brake has a completely different use which we'll get to soon.

Now you should have most of the weight of the bike on the front and a light bit of braking to the rear.

3. Pull in clutch and select the gear you need to be in at the apex of the corner - or where you are going to get on the gas again.

This doesn't necessarily mean 1,2, or 3 gears just as many as is necessary. At the Supermoto School we use 2 gears as this tends to be easiest and best way for students to learn (3rd to 1st). In addition, speed has nothing to do with it, you can back it in from 2nd to 1st or 6th to 1st, it just depends on the circumstances.

4. Lean bike slightly into the corner, and DUMP the clutch, yes, dump it. The rear should now break away reasonably gently and with control. Here, you also maintain some pressure and use of the rear brake, all the way to the apex.

The rear brake is actually used to maintain the slower rotation speed of the rear wheel in relation to the tarmac once the clutch is dumped. If you just dump the clutch the rear will break away and initiate a slide but before you reach the apex, tyre/tarmac friction will have dragged the wheel (and engine speed) back up again to roll with the tarmac - so the slide stops way before you want it to. The rear brake is used to balance this so you can maintain the slide deeper into the corner to the apex. It also gives you more control over the overall slide.

The rear wheel should maintain rotation all the way and if it is locking up, you are using too much rear brake and you will lose stability of the bike.

The clip shown on TV wasn't a representation of how to back it in but was a skid with bike coming to a stop in front of the camera.

There are obviously a number of other things like when you put your leg out, where to and getting exactly where you want to be in the corner while sliding and visual stuff but I hope this clarifies a few things.

Having problems fitting you K&N filter into the air box of your 604?

Top tips for your CCM R30:

Make sure base of rear shock is torqued upto 120 as per CCM.

Run Bridgestone BT92's or 90's, they still stick like shit to a blanket, and you get more than a thousand miles compared to a Pirelli tyre. I did a track day and they only let go once. They have never let go on the road in all weathers, ridden hard.

See attachment ref suspension set-up, I did mine to these settings, and it is now fantastic.

Open race can a must, but up jet the main and pilot jets to :::: MAIN : x2@135 and PILOT: x2@25 fit a K&N Filter from Haines www.hainesmc.co.uk/ and also cut off the flutes under the airbox lid for more air x 6.

If you have the money to upgrade, change the front and rear discs to WAVY BRAKING discs from Talon UK or www.supermotoworld.com/ (Darren) and put in sintered pads i.e., EBC HH, unbelievable stopping power.

Ian at www.hainesmc.co.uk is a good bloke and good for info and parts.

Oil, I use Halfords Semi-synthetic, 2x changes a year. Seeing you work for Castrol, I suppose you will use theirs for free. Fully-synthetic is too much for the clutch, it will slip al the time.

I think that covers most things, any further questions please call me.

Tel 01706 878985 or 07766 012102

all the best.

Lee

OK here goes:
I was asked to write up an advice post for anyone wishing to go off road with his or her CCM.
After some thought (a rare occasion for me as I usually jump in with both feet first) I've found it difficult to create a capture all post that would help everyone, why, well it's because "off road" means different things to different people.
When I saw my 644 DS in the shop it was in supermoto trim, but what I was looking for was a "Dual Sport" bike, I wanted something that I could ride for 60 miles on the tarmac then take it straight off the edge and onto the dirt, I didn't want to be an enduro God (not that I ever could be) nor did I want to ride fast off road, all I wanted was to trundle around, take in the great scenery we have here, get some pictures and have a cup of tea from a flask

Please bear in mind whilst reading this that I am far from an experienced off-roader, I started riding off road for the first time in Feb/Mar 2005, I did however start out on the 644 and am still riding it off road, I have spent a lot of time getting a feel for the bike, tweaking it changing things etc until it was right for me, this however may not be perfect for you but it should be a good guide, after all, how many others have even tried fettling a 644 for serious off road terrain as opposed to green lanes (not knocking flat landers, but the rocky climbs here can be very hard stuff to negotiate on what is considered to be a very heavy bike)

The reality
Riding off road here in the mountains is something that is only safely done in company, going out on your own into the these hills is a guaranteed recipe for being found rotting under your own bike, the areas can be very remote and the weather can change rapidly plus falls are a certainty, so you need riding buddies and there's the kicker, it seems as though I'm the only person on the planet that doesn't want to be an enduro God, after having found loads of riding buddies, they all want to constantly ride at pace, rarely stopping to smell the roses (or heather in our case).

Do what YOU want to do
To realise your ambitions to go off road is very rewarding, whilst trying to ride the way your mates do is frustrating and potentially hazardous.
If you want to ride fast off road on tough terrain then the CCM can do that, but it's FAR from the beginners ideal bike, in my opinion you would be better off getting a much lighter bike and maybe slowly moving back to the CCM as time goes on
For me it was my "learner bike" (for off road that is), all the hardened off road enthusiasts I met would look on in horror and say "isn't that a bit of a handful" or "that's far too heavy" but I wouldn't budge nor cave in to their suggestions that I get a smaller engine/lighter bike as I had a clear vision of what I want to do, once you get through to them that you want to ride both tarmac and trail and that the CCM is truly the only bike that will do both well they may begin to understand, from their perspective they are right in that a lighter, more focused bike is far superior off road and a heavier more powerful bike is far superior on road, but ask them what bike they would suggest that can do both reasonably well and they'll look blank, I have asked this question of many so called experts, even the editors of TBM magazine, none have an answer, the CCM 644 is the absolute best 50/50 dual sport machine, it's reasonably comfortable seat, the well balanced engine, the standard equipment, low maintenance and good size fuel tank all make it good whereas other more dedicated off roaders have a very low fuel range, extremely hard seats, far too much vibration for any distance rides and high maintenance.

Don't be fooled
It's easy to fool yourself with delusional thinking and we all do it..
I once dreamed of touring continents, crossing deserts and going to different countries on a bike, so I bought an Aprilia Caponord (for those that don't know it, it's a giant traillie)
In reality I never got more than 300 miles from home LOL
It's important before spending loads of money on fettling your bike for off road that you know exactly what type of riding your going to be doing, when it comes to anything other than tarmac even slightly different tyres will make a huge difference, of course the only way to establish how you are going to ride for sure is to get out there and do it, therefore I'll try to give advice for a standard base configuration from which you can adapt to your own needs

Listen to the experts
I must add at this point that I am certainly no expert off roader, I do however have better knowledge than many on fettling a CCM 644 for off road and I have persevered with it regardless of the advice to "get a lighter bike" etc
I also credit a lot of my advice to Yoshi Adams (an ex CCM enduro rider with many international wins) and to all my friends who finally realised that they wasn't going to change my mind and gave good advice on what might be needed.

Starting point
The starting point is fairly simple and easy, you just need a standard set of off road rims with the required spacers and a side stand longer than the supermoto version, plus of course some new rubber, standard issue for the CCM 644 are Pirelli MT21's, these are OK to start with but fairly useless if your going to tackle and sloppy wet mud, they just don't seem to get any grip, they are however fairly good on tarmac compared to more focused off road tyres, though my personal preference is for Continental TKC80’s as a dual sport tyre, they seem to cope reasonably well off road and don’t get torn to pieces on road as most other off road tyres do including MT21’s (it’s quite worrying on a hot summers day to see the knobblies flying off your tyres as you ride on the road)
Get some rim locks (1.6 for the front and 2.15 for the rear (assuming you’ve got the standard CCM rims, check on the rims it will have these figures stamped on them)), these will allow you to run low tyres pressures (essential for any kind of grip off road) they lock the tyre to the wheel rim, preventing it from slipping round due to the lack of pressure, if you don't fit them then don't try to run low pressures as the tyre will spin on the rim and rip the valve stem from the tube
For more aggressive off road I'd recommend Pirelli Scorpion Pro's, not very good on tarmac though (I have two sets of rims, one with Pirelli's on and the other with TKC80's, the Pirelli fitted rims also have a 50 tooth rear sprocket (you will need a longer chain), I have a 14 tooth front sprocket permanently fitted now (you will need to grind down the retaining plate for this otherwise the chain will foul on it)
Get rid of those mirrors, they’ll be one of the first things to break, especially when the rear tyre of the rider in front chucks up a rock at 60mph (more on personal protective gear later), you could also do with losing the indicators, as long as you don’t have rear pillion pegs then indicators are not required by law (if they are fitted though, they must be working, ironic that you can’t be prosecuted for not having them but you can be if you’ve got them and they don’t work).

Suspension
Get a feel for the bike before going to town on the suspension
Most likely the first thing you will need to alter is the compression damping on the rear shock That’s the black knob on the bottom of the rear shock), you will soon find this out when your rear tyre starts hitting the number plate (usually resulting in the need for a new plate), I have mine set to No7, if I know I’m going to be doing some heavier drop off’s or jumps then I’ll set it to No9 (the numbers are marked on the knob on the shock)
Next will be the compression damping on the front (the screws are accessed by removing the two black rubber bungs at the very bottom of the front forks), again you notice the need for this when it bottoms out at the end of a drop off or steep descent, I have mine set to 9 clicks out (that is to turn screws fully clockwise then turn them anti clockwise 9 clicks)
I’ve pretty much left the rebound damping as it was (at 11 clicks out from fully closed)
I won’t go into a full detailed description of what these settings are all about here as it is a complicated subject and is covered an many websites (WP and Ohlins etc have good guides online)
Make sure that when adjusting the front fork settings that BOTH forks are set the same.

Personal protection
It should go without saying that off road protection is absolutely essential no ifs or buts
Falling off is inevitable (and in my case mandatory for good riding fun)
Nearly always the first thing to go down is your knees, get some knee and shin guards, there are many available from various shops.
Good body armour is also a must, I guarantee that you will regret it big time if you ride without it
Recently a young lady went out for a ride with us on some rocky terrain, she was allegedly an experienced trail rider, but without armour, she went home with a broken collar bone and 5 broken ribs, my personal preference is for a Knox body armour suit as mine has coped extremely well, whatever you get, make sure it’s of reasonable quality and that it covers your back, shoulders, chest, elbows and forearms, remember the hazards off road are different, you don’t often see a supermoto back tyre throwing three inch rocks at you at 60mph
Hip protectors are also available
Boots:
Don’t be tempted to ride off road with your road boots, get some good MX boots or enduro boots, these have batter protection from the accidents you are likely to have, for example getting your leg trapped under a red hot exhaust with ordinary boots on is going to hurt big time
Choose wisely, you don’t have to pay a fortune, ask people you know who are experienced
How much is your head worth ?
Get a good lid
An off road helmet is great as it is more open than a road lid, you’ll be amazed at how hot you’re going to get riding off road and that little bit of extra air helps enormously, my preference is an Airoh Tyger (search on Google) it’s fairly cheap ACU gold stickered and has a built in visor, the visor will close even with goggles on, get some good goggles too, get double glazed one’s as all the others will steam up meaning you’ll have to take them off leaving your eyes vulnerable.

Fit your own tyres and save the money, it's essential to learn as you WILL be doing it in the field at some point
Everyone gets a puncture sooner or later, usually compression punctures caused by a heavy hit on the tyre.

TIP:
Get 4mm heavy duty tubes fitted, get some old naff 4mm tubes off a dealer, split then round the inner circumference and wrap then round the outside of your new tubes (making a total of 8mm thick) it's a complete bastard to fit them if you're not used to it but since doing that I've never had a puncture, many trail riders do the same

Tools list:
Always have tools to hand on the trail, the RAC don't like driving over rocks to get to you so you'll be on your own
Tyre levers, spanners, screwdrivers, spare inner tube (21 inch only as it can be used in the rear in an emergency)
A small hand pump
Only take what you need ie. make sure you take only the spanners that fit your bike (a 9mm spanner is gonna be useless)
Take drink with you (no not a six pack of carlsberg you muppet Grin

)

There's a good list on the TRF website

Oh and of course the No1 essential bit of kit:
A CAMERA (it's getting lonely in the Tales from the Trail section Grin

)

On the 644 suzi engined model you need to ensure the vacuum hose of the Scottoiler is fitted to the carb side of the one way valve (black and orange thingy) on the grey hose. Otherwise you'll go back to the bike and keep finding nice pools of oil underneath the chain. You live and learn.

If you do decide to go off road:

Grease up all electrical connections, seal off the starter solenoid (water get in and corrodes the terminals), remove the mirrors but most of all have fun (hope I'm not teaching my grandmother to suck egss, but I wish someone had told me that stuff)
Ultimately it's what te bike was built for, the supermoto version wa simply a way to boost sales (not knocking it, I'm just saying that it will take a real pounding without suffering)
If you've got rear footpegs then you need to leave the indicators on, otherwise get them off too.

My suspension setting on the rear is No 9 (very stiff compression) without this you'll bounce all over the place and you'll also lose your number plate real fast, obviously that setting is ideal for me, you'll have to experiment with yours to find out, 7 should be a good starting point.

Also get some hand guards
There are two types "Bark Busters" with metal re-enforcement and "Basic Handguards" with a lighter bike it's best to have the re-enforced type but the extra weight of the CCM when it crashes will buckle the metal which will cause them to foul the levers so I switched to the all plastic one's as it saves me hours straightening them out every time

As for tyres:
I prefer Pirelli Scorpion Pro's, they are road legal (amazingly) though not very good on tarmac, but get me to where I want to go (just don't give it too much stick on tarmac as you'll wear those babies out in a very short time)
The main reason for the larger rear sprocket is to allow better throttle control, without it the bike will tend to want to run away too fast on more technical stuff, usually on a steep rocky ascent when it slips a little, you give it some more throttle then it suddenly finds grip, a lot of smaller engine bikes don't have the power to propel it forwards too hard and even if they have the power, the turn of speed is less with big gearing, bottom line, it's far more controllable.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot Shocked

Rim clamps/ Rim Locks are eassential, to prevent too much slipping and sliding you need to run low tyre pressures (about 14 front and 12 rear, depending on terrain) without rim locks the tyre will stay still while the wheel rim spins frantically, resulting in a ripped out valve and flat tyre.

Did you know that:
The rear fender, and side panels are the same as 96-98 Yamaha YZ250 (That's how I got my black ones)
The front brake light switch is common on many scooters
The front brake lever is the same as the above mentioned YZ
The clutch lever is the same as some Ducati's (I can't remember which models and years)
The brake pads, and entire front calliper assembly are the same as a KTM LC4's
The same thing is true for the rear brake calliper.