|
Here's the real basic
of the set up.
1. Put the bike on a crate so the back wheel is off the ground. Do it cold,
not ridden.
Measure the distance, accurately, from the centre of the wheel spindle to a
point on the frame behind the seat. (Stick a bit of tape on the plastic seat
surround and draw a line with a marker is the
best way.)
Write it down!!
2. Take it off the crate, bounce it, get someone to hold it up, and measure
again.
Write it down!!
3. Sit on it, support it gently with one leg and measure again, this time
your pal will have to do it.
Write it down!
The difference between 1 and 2 can be no more than 15 and 20 mm. In reality,
it will be. Don't get a panic on.
The difference between 1 and 3 can only be between 90 and 100mm. In reality
it wont be!!
Well now you know if you have a problem. The book says if the last
measurement is less than 80, the spring's too hard, and if it's more than
110, it's too soft. If it's 85 or 105, I don't know what you do!
HOWEVER......one complete turn of the big castle-ated nut holding the spring
represents 1.75mm of spring 'pre-load'. If it's too soft, you could try
winding it up to bring the difference down to the limits of 90-100mm.
For example, if the final difference between 1 and 3 was 86mm (4mm away from
the minimum allowed) winding the nut 3 turns would be 3 x 1.75mm = 5.25.
86 + 5.25 =91.25mm within the limits!!
Of course no spanner, proper or otherwise will fit in amongst all the frame
bits, so removing the shocker and replacing becomes the next problem to
overcome.
WP say don't tap it 'round, obviously at the cost of it no one would, so I
won't tell you I gently tapped it with a hammer and 19mm aluminium rod to
get the desired effect without unlocking the lock ring. |
